November 2023
GROSJEAN FRÈRES VIGNE ROVETTAZ
VALLÉE D'AOSTE, ITALY / PETITE ARVINE 2022
What started as a chestnut and cattle farm five generations ago is now a winery as picturesque as they come where the Grosjean frères (brothers) and a few cousins produce incredibly fresh yet powerful alpine wines. The brothers’ ancestors, who resided in the town Fornet in Valgrisenche up in the hills above the Vallé d’Aoste, grew grapes and chestnuts in the valley down below. The grapes they used to make wine to last them through the harsh winter months in the Alps, and the chestnuts they would roast. In the 1960’s Dauphin Grosjean, the father of the brothers who are currently in charge, presented his wine in a local wine expo on the recommendation of some of his friends. What the community tasted was exceptional, and ever since the family has been in the business of winemaking.
What you have here is a Petite Arvine, a grape indigenous to this region of the Alps, which produces very lively wines with great depth and character. This is no exception. The grapes come from the Rovettaz vineyard which lies at about 650m in elevation, high up there. This gives the wine a good backbone of acidity, while the sur lie aging (70% in stainless steel and 30% in oak) gives the wine a fullness and plush texture that will allow it to stand up to the holiday foods we’re all about to indulge in. Throughout this wine there are notes of plantain, mango, and peach, all framed by a sharp minerality and underpinned by yeasty and nutty notes from the sur lie aging. In addition to holiday foods, I would recommend being a little experimental, try pairing this with Venezuelan cuisine, specifically anything with plantains and shredded beef. (Sabor Caribe is a great local Venezuelan restaurant you could find great dishes to pair at!)
MARY TAYLOR BUZET
BUZET
FRANCE / MERLOT, CABERNET SAUVIGNON, 2019
We have another Mary Taylor selection for you this month, this time from the town of Buzet, about 100 km southeast of Bordeaux. The soil composition and climate here are very similar to Bordeaux, making Buzet a great location for Bordeaux varietals, this particular bottling being 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. While on the topic of Bordeaux, it is necessary to mention the historical conflict between Bordeaux and the larger region of Gascogne that Buzet falls within. Many years ago, as Bordeaux controlled/controls the most important ports for exporting wine,
While Buzet is near Bordeaux in location, similar in soil type, and grows the same varietals, the wine the region produces is just slightly different. In this bottle in particular, you’ll find an earthiness like mushrooms and wet leaves followed by grape skins, cherry liqueur, dark chocolate and baking spices. The palate brings all of these notes with an addition of black tea and some floral notes all wrapped up in a full and silky body. I would pair this with a classic roast, all of those heavier holiday foods.
